Profile Setup

Once we have chosen the resin that best suits our model, we can adapt it to our machine. We can do this in the table stacking program that our machine gives us or by using any compatible open-source software.

⚠ PLEASE FIND YOUR PRINTER AND CHECK YOUR PROFILE SETTINGS ⚠

Profiles that have been tried and tested by Powerresins experts are shared in the link above. However, you can easily achieve this profile yourself in a few steps. Let's get started.

⚠ ATTENTION ⚠ 

• Be sure to wear protective equipment (goggles and gloves) and follow safety rules when printing with resins. 
• Each time new resin is used, make sure that your machine is properly calibrated and that the LCD, Resin tank and related machine parts are clean.

Gage Test Model 

Download Gage Test Model

The model shown in the photo above is only 1.4 mm high. Depending on the settings, it will take you 5 to 25 minutes to complete this test print. This test print will help you evaluate the print quality and see if some settings need to be redone.

Our model consists of holes and bars. When all the holes on the model are open and all the rods are printed vertically, our profile is almost correct.

The reason for using so many rods and holes is that it gives us a clue as to the extent to which we should make changes in case of a possible profile revision. It may be roughly sufficient to reduce the curing time by 5% for each closed hole and increase the curing time by 5% for each bar that is not printed vertically.

⚠ REMINDER ⚠

• If the parallel faces are not printed properly, reduce the curing time of the main layers.
• After examining the holes and rods and making sure that our model is accurate in the X,Y axes, examine the sections stacked on top of each other like a ladder. Make sure that all horizontal parts of the model are separated from each other.
• If horizontal parts are touching each other, it means that we are over-curing. If the horizontal parts are not touching each other but appear to be curved, this means that we have under-cured.

Ball Test Model

Download Ball Test Model

Weight is undoubtedly the most important point to consider, especially when producing jewelry with resin-based printers. With this model, we confirm the average exposure time we determined with the previous model. 

Clean the supports after printing this test ball. Weigh the ball with a precision balance. Multiply by the volume of our model and the gravity indicated in the technical data sheet and make sure the weight is exactly equal. If the weight is lighter than expected, it means under-curing and if it is too much, it means over-curing. Achieve the exact weight with small variations.

Now, let us briefly explain the parameters we recommend to change in case we encounter the situations described above. 

Main Layer Curing Time

This setting determines the time it takes to cure the first layers that will later form the basis of your model. Please note that the value of this particular setting should be higher than the exposure time of all other settings related to exposure time, so that optimum adhesion to the platform can be achieved.

Adjust the initial value according to the resin manufacturer's recommendations. If the model does not stick to the platform, increase this parameter by 10% or 50% and consider experimenting with values in between. Excessive increase of this parameter will result in a significant increase in the printing time. Also, if the exposure time is too long, the substrates will be much wider than necessary (elephant foot effect). If the problem persists, try adding support.

As a rule, you will not experience any misprints if the above-mentioned settings are done correctly. Basically, the fine-tuning is done as follows: If the quality of a test model you have printed is poor, you re-set the setting and perform a test print again. This process is repeated until an acceptable result is achieved.

Let's quickly review the remaining settings, but in the vast majority of cases, there is no need to readjust them.

Number of Sublayers

This is the total amount of layers that will form the basis of your model, i.e. the number of layers that will be printed based on the sub-layer exposure time. We recommend setting the value to 5.

Light Off Delay 

The time required for the viscous polymer to flow under the model. In most cases, the optimal value for this setting is 1 second.

Bottom Light Off Delay

This setting specifies the delay between the end of the platform's descending movement and the start of the exposure. This time interval is necessary to eliminate the negative impact that resin can have on the integrity of the model. We recommend leaving it at the factory value.

Lifting Distance

The height to which the building platform will rise. The optimal value would be somewhere between 4 and 6 mm. If the value is less than 4 mm, there is a high probability that the model will not come out from under the boat at all.

Retraction / Lifting Speed

The speed at which the platform moves up and down. You can try increasing the value if your 3D printer is a high-end printer, but in our opinion, it is better to leave it alone.